Nasenlochen, Oerli, Saentis


Publiziert von olethros , 19. Oktober 2022 um 21:52.

Region: Welt » Schweiz » Appenzell
Tour Datum:19 Oktober 2022
Wandern Schwierigkeit: T4+ - Alpinwandern
Klettern Schwierigkeit: I (UIAA-Skala)
Wegpunkte:
Geo-Tags: Alpstein   CH-AI   CH-AR   CH-SG 
Zeitbedarf: 3:30
Aufstieg: 1300 m

This is a classic hike, well-recommended. it is at least a T4+, and while not technically difficult, it requires some experience [1].

Starting at Saentisbahn, easy walk/jog to Potersalp, then climb on narrow dirt path through moderately steep grassy slopes. This section is easy if it is not very wet: otherwise, muddy conditions can make this extremely slippery [2].

After a while, you reach a small rocky outcrop. The path then ascents next to the rock face. Here the way is partially on gravel, and sometimes on small rocky steps, where hands are useful. After a partial traverse of a rocky incline, you continue on a gravel path from which the caves are visible. You then turn east again.

Then there are two short scrambles to overcame, both are easy, but the second is longer and a bit more exposed [3]. The holds are quite good though, and with proper 3-point technique there is no real danger. 
The next section is a traverse, posing no difficulties, that is secured with a chain (which I didn't really use).
You then walk on rocky grounds and gravel for a short amount of time until you reach a slab with a chain attached. 

I was really happy to see the slab, which is supposed to be the crux of the route. However, to me it felt more fun than the scrambling sections before, as it was not so exposed. The slab is about 2m high and is equipped with metal rods and a chain, but there are small steps and cracks in the rock that one can use to make progress, as well as a crack on the left side. I used the chain with one hand and rock holds with the other: I'd say though that if my feet slipped then I don't know how much the chain could do to hold me, given that it is nearly vertical.

The rest of the walk to Hunter Oehrligrueb is interesting, with some really easy scrambling. Then, since I still had time until lunch, I went towards Oehrli [4]. On the way, I passed a man with two prepubescent kids and said hi: the first encounter of the day. To get to the top, one first steps over a small rocky saddle and then walks on a wide, airy saddle of grass to the peak. The way is not marked, so some judgement is required, in particular towards the end. What I ended up doing was going initially on the left side, then crossing over to the right and climbing nearly vertically in a narrow chimney directly to the top. 

I had my snack, and found some small space in the Gipfelbuch, which had run out of pages. There was also a tiny bible in the peak's box, for some reason, but not a Koran or Buddhist book of prayers, or Dionysian rites.

Going down, I noticed there had been a path on the left side of the ascent, and I followed that, making for a slightly different experience. At the bottom of the rocky face, the dad with his kids were preparing with a rope and harness. I bid them to have fun and continued on my way.

Around the crossroads, I met an old lady who for some reason asked me if I was fit (?) and if I had been to that peak, and if you need to climb to get there. I told her that it was not very hard (grade I?) and she said something about a medical condition which I did not quite understand.

Then, it was time for Saentis. I had not climbed it through Blauschnee before [5]. The way to Girensattel is fun, and going through Blauschnee requires some orientation effort. Himmelsleiter is relatively steep, but the holds are quite good and you don't really need the steps or the steel cables, at least when going up. There were also not too many people, so that was nice.

Now, I am not sure how to rate this. The cable section does not seem easier than Mitler Googeien. On the other hand, Buetzi, which is my T5 reference, was much more precarious.

[1] This is my third time up towards Nasselochen. This time managed to do it without any problems.
[2] The first time, back in 2020 I randomly went up the path towards Nasenlocher, but it was terribly muddy and I turned back. 
[3] The second time, this summer, I turned back at those scrambling bits.
[4] I passed by the Oehrli once, but it was so terribly windy that I didn't even want to cross the airy, grassy ledge leading towards it.
[5] When I tried Silberplatten, I sprained my ankle badly on the way back, just a few hundred meters before the Tierwis hut. I was planning to climb back down from there, but thought going to the top and taking the lift down would be faster and easier on my ankle. However, the Himmersleiter was not very fun to do with a sprained ankle and a bad mood.

Tourengänger: olethros


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Kommentare (2)


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Uli_CH hat gesagt: Congrats
Gesendet am 22. Oktober 2022 um 14:19
that you succeeded this time at the climbing section. Öhrli looks quite impressive but is quite easy to climb.
You seem to be quite "hartnäckig" as you return to the sites where you fail (like Goggeien).
I am sure that one day you'll do the second part of the descent of Bützi as well. For me it was easier than the first part, where I hardly found a place to put my feet on. And try climbing Stockflue directly from the hut!

Good climbing
Uli

olethros hat gesagt: RE:Congrats
Gesendet am 24. Oktober 2022 um 21:46
Thanks! Oehrli was not as hard as I thought, yes.

Buetzi was a lot of fun, but it was totally unexpected for me. I'll definitely try Stockflue and Rigihochflue this winter... maybe not all in one go :)

C.


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