La Ruinette solo from Mauvoisin

Published by davvman , 16 August 2020, 22h02.

Region: World » Switzerland » Valais » Oberwallis
Date of the hike:11 August 2020
Mountaineering grading: PD
Climbing grading: II (UIAA Grading System)
Geo-Tags: CH-VS 
Time: 12:30
Height gain: 2000 m 6560 ft.
Height loss: 2000 m 6560 ft.

Hello everyone!

My planning and the accomplishment of this tour I based on morphine's report, which is a very accurate completion of the well-known guide books' descriptions (as up to Silbernagel and SAC e.g.).

I am herein only describing deviations and the experiences I made accordingly. Also I am sharing pictures with you.

Here it goes: at 4 in the morning, as soon as the dam spit me out onto the long and flat way along the reservoir, I began my long journey.
That was the time that I made a completely dispensable mistake. I decided to go west of the lake. Don't do that.
I did it, because the announced estimated time to the Chanrion hut was less for the west side than for the east. What I didn't know is that there is no need to go by Chanrion. Instead, take the eastern way that will guide you directly to the pass below the point the climbing begins at. Going east saves you easily 1-2 hours.
More unluckily, a guide with his client overtook me in a Jeep. Although I gave him sign, he didn't stop for giving me a ride. At a later time I learned that they drove all the way up to Chanrion and, of cause, got quite some advantage over me. I really would have loved to have saved that time, as thunderstorms were forecasted from 1 pm (that in the end didn't come).

Aware of a potential change in weather, I only took breaks for eating, drinking, changing and taking pictures every now and then. This allowed me to summit at 11 am. I didn't rest much longer than 15 minutes on the summit, even though it was really warm and completely windstill up there.

  • At the ridge beginning from Col de Lire Rose, when the Gendarme is to be tackled, I decided to climb left of it, where the Gendarme contrasts its surrounding rock. When you made it, you will find abseiling slings on top.
  • The snow below P.3710m was annoying. My feet were sinking in a foot deep, at least. That's why I climbed along the S ridge left of it. No difficulties.
  • The rock blocking the way alongside the ridge beginning at P.3710m that "morphine" avoided by dodging into the north face, I climbed directly somewhat at its right side.

  • On the way down, the rock blocking the way alongside the ridge beginning at P.3710m I dealt with as "morphine" did; by finding a bypass through the north face. It is very easy and safe.
  • The snow field could be used as a slope. I slid it down.
  • I tried to avoid the Gendarme between Col de Lire Rose and P.3386m on my way down on the left. There are foodsteps that can be followed leading into the rugged flank south of the ridge tempting me. Well, it worked, but it's full of brittle debris. And I was worried I didn't find a save way back onto the ridge. Yet I did. If you go here, try to make it back onto the ridge asap! What's awaiting you down the flank doen't look like you wanna be there.

Hike partners: davvman

Click to draw, click on the last point to end drawing


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