Gran Paradiso - Skitour around the peak - 7days

1. Cogne-Valnontey - rif. V.Sella
 
We started the tour at Sunday (6.4.2014) from carpark near the last restaruant in Cogne-Valnontey. The begin in valley Valnontey to - after a while - a steep slope on the right towards V. Sella hut. We carry our the skis about 1h and put them on more less on 1900 m asl and don't take them off until the end of our tour. After a while we pass ruins of la Pascieu (2144m asl)
https://www.google.com/maps/@45.5827766,7.3255736,225m/data=!3m1!1e3
and some abandoned building just a few minutes before hut. The hut we reach before 4.00 pm.
 
„So why don’t try the downhill right now…“
 
Exactly! It is even early and we fancy ski around. Sitting in the hut is too much challenge to us, so after few minutes we are on our first way to nearby hill. We descent in rather hard, frozen snow since the elevation is north-east and the sun is sinking over the horizon.
We return to the hut enjoying the first downhill.
 
2. Route rif. V.Sella - Coll del Tuf (Punta del'Inferno)
 
Monady. The ski aim for today is Colle del Tuf. Or maybe even the top – Punta dell'Inferno. We begin at 7.30 as the one of lastest team. The today trip is not long. We head towards the pass, that we spotted yesterday. Easly can find the way for today. The weather is good. Rising sun we have on our back. Remaining scheduled plan, we observe ascent to and summit Punta Rossa (3630m) on our right - the aim for tomorrow. At 10 we are in. The pass. Some of us leave the ski and walk to the summit. Other part of the group ski on. We reach first culmination - about 3380m. The rest of path due sharp ridge is more demanding and require more skills so we give up.
On the south we could see the descent from Gran Serra (Gran Sertz) along Timorion Glacier. Further we are able to see the pass - Colli Gran Neyron. This is the route from V.Sella hut to Chabod hut through Gran Serra, which due to the plan we will be passing in two days.
Opposite we admire Punta Bianca, Punta Nera, Punta Rossa and appearing behind them - La Grivola - rocky pile rising up to 3969m asl.
Descent due the way up and after that again up. Snow is vary: powder, hard powder, icy snow covering of ice snow... After that long ride to hut for a gulp of beer :)
 
3. Route rif. V.Sella - Punta Rossa
 
Tuesday. In this day the weather is breaking. The morning is even reasonably good but we already know that later will be worse. The day before we thought that we were alone on this route. But today we could see in front of us a group of people, local guide with customers. That helps us to find the right couloir, and be sure we are one right way. After a while customers fall behind. We use crampons to go through the first gully, than terrain gets litte flat and the secont gully leading to pass - Colle della Rossa (3195m asl). We continue trip despite the weather getting worse. To do that, we drop some height, traverse east wall of Punta Rossa turn left and ascent wide crest towards the summit. It’s possibile to ski up until 3500m. We have to use map and gps to find the right direction, because dense fog covered us and nothing much can be seen. We remembered Trajo Glacier is located on our right but we are not able to see it. We decided to carry the skis litte more hoping for descent along snow field on the right. On the ridge the wind is very strong.
 
Look! there's a Grivola!
 
We make skidepo at the big rock and reach the summit on foot. Fog aroud us, but we have in our mind that La Grivola and Grivoletta is on right, Punta Bianca Punta Nera in front of us and Punta dell'Inferno, Gran Serra i Herbetet on our left. 
Few photos and get back to depo, arduous switchig to ride and ski back. In the meantime, hard icy snow in the morning become softer, few cm fresh snow was fallen so the skiride back in gully become wonderfull.
It's 14. Fog retreat a few minutes after we reach the hut :)
We decide to ascent again to well known hills nearby the hut. Right choice! We ski in fresh pleasent powder in setting sun.
 
4. Route rif. V. Sella - Gran Serra - Colle Gran Neyron - rif. F.Chabod
 
Wednesday - crossing between V. Sella and F. Chabod huts. We leave cosy hut. The day is sunny, but very windy. We set off as usuallny several minutes before eight as the last team :) We follow marked path towards Gran Serra. First on Lauson Glacier to the steep pass, next trawerse on Gran Val Glacier under the Gran Serra ridge. Before summit we need to take on our crampons, put on our ski to backpack and climb last 70 m to the top. It's 11. We reach the top and descent few meters to Timorion Glacier. Still it's windy, so we rapidly take off skis and looking for the place to take shelter. We find it 300m below on the little ridge on the left part of Glacier. From here we have good view to the next part of the way. We need only to descent about 200m to the pass in the ridge, again steep descent to the south in good snow and arduous ascent via Neyron Glacier to another pass - Gran Neyron.
 
Another pass …
 
We are not alone. We meet several others groups - among others a French team, which will accompany us to the end of this journey. On the pass we use our crampons again. To reach a dreamed snow field we need only go through the ridge, cross stony gully and jump into Montadayne Glacier.
After all we know, that will be the best downhill ever. South-West side guarantee wonderfull ride in afternoon sunlight. There are plenty ways to choose. We decide to the simpliest - right to the hut - F. Chabod. As we previos thing, that was the best skidescent ever. Simply this day we regard as the best of all tour. We finish this day at 16 and find the place to sleep in collective room for 46E per person.
 
5. Route Gran Paradiso - rif. V.Emanuelle
 
Thursday - the most important day, the aim of the trip - summit Gran Paradiso. Again we are late, we the last... but only for hour and a half. We overtake the French - who met yesterday – and other teams. We aproach through the glacier Laveciau. As most of teams, we belay at the beginning. Arduously ascending finally we reach Schiena d'Asino, the place where routes from rif. Chabod and rif. Emanuelle meet together at 3750m. Some people going forward using ski crampons but most of us fasten ski into backpack and put on crampons. The route leads through the rigde to great glacier field, and few meters later getting steeper and steeper. We need to climb this steep wall several meters and after that terrain again becomming flat. Like enormous stairs we reach the last step. Few meters before summit we leave equipment - ski and backpacks - and waitnig the people from summit descent safely to depo place. The last section is very narrow rigde, that could be pass only separately.

First to the Paradise next to Madonna

We decided to visit the rear, less crowded, the main peak and after that take in line to the peak with the monument of Madonna. Finally we also climb to the figurine, taking some photos and fast returning to depo for celebrating ascent to Gran Paradiso. At the beginning the descent is not comfortable. The snow is hard and turnings we could do with difficulty. The conditions for good skier. But the lower the better. Below the bivak Schiena d'Asino the descent is really nice. We follow the markers which are assembled for next-weekend race. We are very happy with the conditions. Additionally the weather is perfect - sun is shining all day. What need more :) The ending, 100 m before hut Emanuelle is tough becouse of heavy, wet snow. Overall we reach the hut full of happiness. We achived the main aim of this trip - the summit Gran Paradiso - and that's not the end. Before us - as we shortly could see - more interesting and more exciting descents.
We reach Emmanuelle hut few minutes past 15. It is crowded. Weekend is coming and additionally the weather should be nice so plenty of people want to take advantage to reach close Italian popular summit.
We have a overnight in a separate building, 9-bed-container.
Price HB - 33euro.

6. Route rif. Emanuelle - Col del Gran Paradiso - Colle dei Becchi - rif. Pontese
 
Friday. Initially we have a problem with orientation. The route we follow is rarely visited. Most of tourists choose the Gran Paradiso. Addtitionally the group of German tourist with the guide that we thought they go the same direction like us head towards Grant Entret - trawersing the slopes of La Tresenta and Ciaforon. Fortunately we find the right direction and go towards Col del Gran Paradiso. On our way we catch up with familiar French and another trip with a guide. It's 11. On the pass (Col del Gran Paradiso) we are making longer rest, what makes that we are loosing sight of mentioned trip with a guide. On our own we have to look for the crossing through the Noaschetta Occid Glacier. The French smell a rat and quickly follow us. We weave our way through the glacier, looking for - on hard snow - the footprint of recently crossing team. Finding right way, at least a half hour later we are at doorstep of steep slope. W have 400m descent to the valley, crossing next to bivaco Ivrea and then ascent in full sun to another pass - Colle dei Becchi - 2990m. We make it efficiently. The French stay close and after a while we are together at the mentioned pass. Now there is nothing but long beautiful descent to rif. Pontese - 2200m. Almost 800m down the slope. For the last overnight we end up the second, beautiful, located off the beaten track hut. They have their own beer - what make us happy :) Jam and bread produce themselves. The overnight we spend in collective room at the attic.
Price: HB - 43euro (good marshtee)
 
7. Route rif. Pontese - Col del Teleccio – Lillaz
 
Saturday. The last day of skitour. Despite of yesterday, heavy air suggesting the weather deterioration the morning is sunny. It is weather inversion - down in a valley cover of clouds, upper us blue, clear sky. We set off and have to ascend over 1100m to the pass Col di Teleccio. The route is smooth only for a moment - then fast pile up. Some use their shoe crampons, only few trust their ski crampons. On the first doorstep we are about 9.00. The route flattens out. We are on the plateu - Piano delle Agnelere - about 2700m. The route turns Wright and after that we are passing another doorstep - about 3000m and entering the Teleccio Glacier.

Straight to the Pass...

On the right forks the route to Punta Ondezana, but no one of ascending team even look that direction. We have no power to go up another hundreds of meters and after that tire ascending to Teleccio Pass. In spite of weariness at 11 we are at the Teleccio Pass. The altitude over 3300m. We realize that we have only over 1600m of descent.
First the snow is demanding, we have to carefully choose our lines. Lower the snow is getting better and below 2900 m asl (below the Valeille Glacier) is completely super. The run is wonderful. That is fantastic conclusion of seven-days-skitour around the Gran Paradiso.
 
Summary:
1. No washing water in hut and no drinking water in some of them
2. Breakfast and dinner are in every hut
3. Marsh tee is available in every hut. In some need to pay
4. Avarage price for HB - 45euro
5. No cellular coverage in huts. In Pontese hut was free WiFi
 
Statistics:
Distance: 78 km
Overall ascent: 8367m