Wildhuser Schafberg (2373 m), Schafbergkante (1908 m)
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8. August 2010 um 18:04.
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Approach
Car was parked at Wildhaus (1090 m) from where gondola up to Gamplüt (1354 m), this took about 10 min.
Description of the climbing route and conditions
Weather was good all day. Beginning with sunshine and then turning a little bit foggy but no rain at all. Afternoon was sunshine again. Starting point of the route was easy to find and only ~30 min from Gamplüt.
According plaisir ost climbing gradings where: 4a, 5a, 4a, 5a, 5a(5c+), 4c, 2c and 4a. This was a quite a much like this. Abseiling from the peak down would have been possible with 2 x 50m rope with one go, but we used 1 x 50m twise, without better knowledge (maybe next time). Alltogether climbing took about 4 hours from start to peak.
Description of the route to Schafberg
We took the route 295a (from SAC guide) someone has called this "Kamin". Rock was typical, sharp, sandpaperlike kalkstone. Relatively good grips and holds. Estimate for grading is T5. Time from Schafbergkante to top of Schafberg was about 2 hours.
Equipment
2 x 50m rope, 10 expresses, 6 slings, 2 sets of nuts (0-9)
Exit and way back
Fom top of Schafberg goof re-white down to Gamplüt --> gondola down - -> Wildhaus
Car was parked at Wildhaus (1090 m) from where gondola up to Gamplüt (1354 m), this took about 10 min.
Description of the climbing route and conditions
Weather was good all day. Beginning with sunshine and then turning a little bit foggy but no rain at all. Afternoon was sunshine again. Starting point of the route was easy to find and only ~30 min from Gamplüt.
According plaisir ost climbing gradings where: 4a, 5a, 4a, 5a, 5a(5c+), 4c, 2c and 4a. This was a quite a much like this. Abseiling from the peak down would have been possible with 2 x 50m rope with one go, but we used 1 x 50m twise, without better knowledge (maybe next time). Alltogether climbing took about 4 hours from start to peak.
Description of the route to Schafberg
We took the route 295a (from SAC guide) someone has called this "Kamin". Rock was typical, sharp, sandpaperlike kalkstone. Relatively good grips and holds. Estimate for grading is T5. Time from Schafbergkante to top of Schafberg was about 2 hours.
Equipment
2 x 50m rope, 10 expresses, 6 slings, 2 sets of nuts (0-9)
Exit and way back
Fom top of Schafberg goof re-white down to Gamplüt --> gondola down - -> Wildhaus
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Beschreibung der Tour
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