Gross Spannort (3198 m)
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1. August 2010 um 12:49.
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Planning
Our aim was to climb Gross Spannort at Saturday
Approach
Car was parked at Bodenberg (1000 m) from where hiking up to Kröntehütte (1903 m) took about 1h 45 min.
Description of the climbing route and conditions
Weather was excellent all day. Sun was shining and no clouds anywhere. According the information from hütte, it had been raining at last week about 40cm of show on top of the glacier, for this reason it was then unpossible to see any cracks of the glasier. In the morning after cold night the snow on glasier was still holding and we could walk on top of it. This was completely different on a way back, when we fall thought the snow about 20-30 cm.
Also at the Gross Spannort the was a quite a lot of snow and we could not use the "normal-route". Then we deceided to take one "chimney-like" route, more on the west side of the "normal route", this route was quite good doable. Otherwise we followed the route description in Plaisir Ost.
In Plaisir - Ost the route is described (form bottom to top) 2b - 2a - 2b -3a, but I would like to updagrade the figures, because of the amount of snow and at the same time melting and dropping ice and snow. Also we had to climb this stuff with crampons on, which was also more demanding. So my hollow perseption of the gradings (in respective order) would be: 3a - 3a - 3b - 4a.
All together route was physically very demanding. More than 11 hours from hütte to hütte and way back over the sinking snow on glaicier was heavy. Also the total amount of hiking down at Saturday (from Gross Spannort to Bodenberg) was 2200 meters and thats a quite something.
Equipment
(3 persons) 1 x 50m rope, 9 expresses, 9 slings, 2 sets of nuts (0-9), 5 ice -screws, 3 x crampons, 3 ice axes
Exit and way back
Kröntehütte - Bodenberg - Erstfeld
Our aim was to climb Gross Spannort at Saturday
Approach
Car was parked at Bodenberg (1000 m) from where hiking up to Kröntehütte (1903 m) took about 1h 45 min.
Description of the climbing route and conditions
Weather was excellent all day. Sun was shining and no clouds anywhere. According the information from hütte, it had been raining at last week about 40cm of show on top of the glacier, for this reason it was then unpossible to see any cracks of the glasier. In the morning after cold night the snow on glasier was still holding and we could walk on top of it. This was completely different on a way back, when we fall thought the snow about 20-30 cm.
Also at the Gross Spannort the was a quite a lot of snow and we could not use the "normal-route". Then we deceided to take one "chimney-like" route, more on the west side of the "normal route", this route was quite good doable. Otherwise we followed the route description in Plaisir Ost.
In Plaisir - Ost the route is described (form bottom to top) 2b - 2a - 2b -3a, but I would like to updagrade the figures, because of the amount of snow and at the same time melting and dropping ice and snow. Also we had to climb this stuff with crampons on, which was also more demanding. So my hollow perseption of the gradings (in respective order) would be: 3a - 3a - 3b - 4a.
All together route was physically very demanding. More than 11 hours from hütte to hütte and way back over the sinking snow on glaicier was heavy. Also the total amount of hiking down at Saturday (from Gross Spannort to Bodenberg) was 2200 meters and thats a quite something.
Equipment
(3 persons) 1 x 50m rope, 9 expresses, 9 slings, 2 sets of nuts (0-9), 5 ice -screws, 3 x crampons, 3 ice axes
Exit and way back
Kröntehütte - Bodenberg - Erstfeld
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