Tajakante Klettersteig

The AlpinVerlag's "Klettersteigführer Österreich" describes the combination of Seeben, Tajakante and Coburger via ferrata as one of the toughest via ferrata routes to do in a single day. The total ascent adds up to 1600m and each of the three via ferrata's is graded D/E, i.e. very to extremely difficult. To have a chance to complete this ambitious route, David and I found ourselves at the Erwalder Almbahnen valley station as early as 6am.

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First up is the Seeben via ferrata, which ascends a wall next to a waterfall. The access is clearly signposted. However, the signposted route is currently blocked because of a landslide. Access is still possible by following the 'Wasserfall Rundweg' around in the opposite direction.

The very first move on the via ferrata is a real problem already: a vertical wall, with only a few tiny holds, which are very polished and moist from the waterfall. David pulls himself up, but I can't see a way to make it happen and I lose confidence. Since the topo tells us that the end of the route is even more difficult (D/E as opposed to D for the beginning), I decide to call it quits there and then. David (undoubtedly the better climber of the two of us) climbs back down without much trouble. We take off our harnesses again, and instead make our way up to the Seebensee via the 'Hoher Gang', a T4 path which is secured by cables in the upper section.

Due to the time lost with the futile approach of the Seeben via ferrata, it's past 9am already when we reach the Seebensee. The lake and its surroundings are incredibly beautiful in the morning sunlight. At the far end of the lake, an information panel announces the second (and longest) via ferrata in the area: the Tajakante Klettersteig. The approach from here is along a faint path which is only partially marked by red paint. But just aim for the foot of the ridge with the remarkable solitary tree, and you'll find the start of the via ferrata.

Two women start the via ferrata just before us, and almost immediately find themselves struggling. They decide to turn back after the first difficult section (only marked as C on the topo in the AlpinVerlag guide, but clearly more difficult than that). This makes me worry a little as well: will I also fail right at the start, for the second time today? Luckily, the actual effect is opposite. I master this first crux without real problems, which gives me renewed confidence for the rest of the route.

What follows is 3 hours of absolute via ferrata heaven, climbing almost 600 metres in altitude to the summit of the Vorder Tajakopf. The route consistently, almost stubbornly, keeps to the ridge. This brings some real challenges, yet only the very steepest walls have one or two iron pegs in them. The route is varied and has a couple of very nice traverses as well. The spectacular backdrop never disappears throughout the entire route: the Seebensee and Drachensee down below, the remarkable summits of Ehrwalder Sonnenspitze, Drachenkopf and Wamperter Schrofen directly across, as well as Zugspitze massif towards the north. The guide book wasn't lying, calling this one of the "most scenic via ferratas in Austria"! But don't underestimate the difficulty: the D/E grade is certainly appropriate!

The descent from the Vorder Tajakopf isn't a walk in the park either. Initially there are a few secured sections. Most of the descent is a T4 hike, sometimes on nice rock, but often with annoying bits of scree. At the saddle, there is the possibility to do another via ferrata: the Coburger Klettersteig onto the Hinter Tajakopf. This one is short, but very demanding at a D/E grade, just like the Tajakante Klettersteig. We are a little tired and decide that the Tajakante Klettersteig was epic enough already, so we take the normal descent towards the Drachensee and the Coburger Hutte.

After refreshing ourselves in the cold water of the Drachensee, we take a well-deserved break in the Coburger Hütte. As we set off again, a rain shower is moving in. In the wet, we decide to take the easiest way down, via Ehrwalder Alm. This route is a big of a drag, though. The path between the Seebensee and the Ehrwalder Alm goes on for ages without losing any altitude. In fact there is a little extra ascent in here as well, taking our total ascent for the day up to a hefty 1800m. The Ehrwalder Alm cable car is still running when we arrive, but 11.50 euros for a single ticket down is a little extortionate, given that the cable car only covers an altitude difference of 400m. We decide that those 400m won't make a difference any more - we'll donate something to Save the Knees some other day - and complete the final descent to the car park on foot as well.

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Even though we only completed one of the three via ferratas in the area, this Tajakante Klettersteig was an absolute highlight, one of the best via ferratas I've done so far. I've used the word 'epic' for the Arlberger Klettersteig that we completed the day before, but it certainly applies here as well. The Tajakante is a long, challenging route in scenery that is a spectacular as it gets. Highly recommended to anybody who can handle D/E. I'll definitely be back at some point.

PS: a recommended place to stay in the valley: Ferienhaus Olympia / Restaurant Bauernstube in Lermoos. Great value-for-money apartments, and don't miss the specials on the menu!

Next day: Leite Klettersteig (Nassereith) and Wasserfall Klettersteig (Muttekopfhütte, Imst)