Via ferrata Sandro Pertini

Day two of my Pentecost weekend in the Dolomites. Via ferrata is one of the main attractions in the Dolomites for me, and this was going to be my first one: the via ferrata Sandro Pertini, located near Wolkenstein.

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The via ferrata Sandro Pertini has been the subject of some controversy. It is located in a national park and nature activist have campaigned for its deconstruction. On the other hand (according to the Alpinverlag guide) the warden of the Stevia hut claims that the local eagle, rather than being disturbed, has actually started laying more eggs since the via ferrata was constructed. But then again, he might no be entirely unbiased...

As a result of the whole argument, the via ferrata Sandro Pertini is now ten years old, but still hasn't been officially openend. There are no sign-posts leading to the via ferrata, and along the first few metres the steel cable has been removed. However, the via ferrata is still popular, and most likely you'll be able to follow the crowds to the start of the route. Otherwise, look for the ladder bridge high up in the wall, and aim to reach the base of the wall pretty much directly below. The missing cable at the start isn't a problem. If you're not confident scrambling up these first couple of steps, then you shouldn't be doing the via ferrata anyway. After that, the entire route is in perfect condition. Sometimes, you could even say that the via ferrata is a little too well protected, as the anchor points of the cable are quite close to each other, even on the easier sections.

The via ferrata is roughly split in two halves, with a short walk on a grassy terrace in between. The Alpinverlag guidebook puts the difficulty of the via ferrata at C/D, which would correspond roughly to a K4. This crux is a steep dihedral which comes at the end, after the ladder bridge. For me this felt rather difficult for a K4. Possibly I just perceive the difficulty a little higher because I'm not used to Dolomites-style via ferrata, i.e. lots of rock contact and very few iron rungs or pegs. It's certainly a whole different style than most of the Swiss via ferratas, but good fun!

From the end of the via ferrata, it's a short walk to the Stevia hut. The hut is still closed, but the warden is around and is an acquaintance of two of my local climbing partners. As such we get offered a shot of local pine brandy. Afterwards we follow the 'directissima' descent, a vague path down a scree-filled gully (T4). Not a particularly enjoyable descent, but certainly incredibly quick, leading directly back to the car park.

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The via ferrata Sandro Pertini was a great introduction to Dolomite style via ferrata. The approach is short and the views are spectacular, though you do not reach any summit. It certainly made me eager to come back for more via ferrata in the Dolomites!