Following the footsteps of Alpin_Rise: Lütispitz – Stöllen – Schafwisspitz - Schwarzchopf

Published by 360 Pro , 18 October 2007, 20h47.

Region: World » Switzerland » St.Gallen
Date of the hike:17 October 2007
Hiking grading: T6 - Difficult High-level Alpine hike
Climbing grading: I (UIAA Grading System)
Geo-Tags: Alpstein   CH-SG 
Access to start point:cff logo Alt St. Johann
Access to end point:cff logo Unterwasser

After reading Alpin_Rise’s report Ueberschreitung des westlichen Alpsteins, I realized that the peaks between Lütispitz and Stoss where still missing on my list of visited peaks in that area. So I decided to inspect the core of Alpin_Rise’s tour and maybe at a later point do the “whole shebang” too.

I started in Alt St. Johann and walked up to Gräppelensee via Scharten. From there I took the “Direttissima” up to Lütispitz (south flank, T4). The following ridges and peaks are a joyful hike all in the T4/T5 area. Alpin_Rise actually describes in very nicely in his report: For more details see 3. Etappe: Lütispitz - Stoss (2111m) in his report.

There’s not too much I can add:
  • I didn’t find any “Gipfelbuch” on Stöllen either, according to the SAC guide there is or maybe used to be one there. 
  • I wonder why Schafwisspitz is not listed on the Swiss maps. Not only is it the highest peak around there (0.3 meters higher than Lütispitz :-), but also the one with the biggest and nicest cross.
  • Crossing from Schafwisspitz to Schwarzchopf is the most difficult part of the tour! After reading Alpin_Rise’s description I decided not to follow the ridge but go down the southwest flank instead. However, soon it got scarily steep and I kind of felt better going up to the ridge again. As soon as the first pine trees come up on the right (after a little saddle), it is actually relatively easy to go down to a lower, not so steep grass band (T5+, certainly not recommended when it's wet) and from there it is quite easy to find your way over and up to Schwarzchopf. Going down the southeast ridge to the notch north of point 1843 is described as “Route eher nach dem Geschmack der Gämse als der Bergwanderer” in the SAC guide. Well, I must be a Gäms then, because I liked it…

From the notch north of P. 1843, I glided down on rubble to Schrenit and then followed the red/white marked route to Alpli and Unterwasser.

Alt St. Johann – Scharten – Risi – Gupf – Schwarzchopf (1798m) – Lütispitz – Oberwis – Stöllen – Schafwisspitz – Schwarzchopf (1949m) – Schrenit – Alpli – Unterwasser

Hike partners: 360


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Comments (5)

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Delta Pro says: Nice hike!
Sent 19 October 2007, 07h15
This April, we found the Gipfelbuch on Stöllen - one of the most beautiful peaks in the Alpstein.
I guess, you may rate the south-east ridge (and probably also the the south-west access) of Schwarzchopf with T6. T6 includes a wide span of difficulties, so not only the most difficult ascents (that are still negotiable) are T6. By the way, I would also rate the Chläbdächer traverse with T6, a moderate one, but still...
Beautiful pictures again! Great!

360 Pro says: RE:Nice hike!
Sent 19 October 2007, 08h15
Delta, Thanks!

Somebody must have hidden the "Gipfelbuch" well, after you were there. Or maybe it was you? :-)

I'll rate the Schwarzchopf with T6 (since I agree with what other people have said here: it is better to classify a hike too high than too low). However, the conditions I encountered were most likely way easier than when you were there last spring. For me it was very dry and not slippery at all, you didn't even really have to hold onto the grass.

PS: I also changed the Chläbdächer traverse from T5 to T6

Alpin_Rise Pro says: RE:Nice hike!
Sent 19 October 2007, 20h20
Glad you followed my footsteps ;-)

I didn't find the summit book, because I missed the main summit of Stöllen, I guess.

I would rather rate the easyest way on Schwarzchopf a T5... to me it seemed not as hard as other routes, for example Glattchamm. The direct ridge from Schafwisspitz is defintly a T6... also wondered why this beautiful peak isn't mentioned in the swiss map?

Awesome pictures as always - well done! Looking forward to read about the whole ridge with your pics.

360 Pro says: RE:Nice hike!
Sent 21 October 2007, 12h43
The conditions which Delta and sglider encountered probably justify a T6, but I agree with you that under normal conditions Schwarzchopf is most likely only a T5. But as you say, the whole hike probably still "deserves" a T6, because of the traverse from Schafwisspitz to Schwarzchopf.

PS: I guess the "whole shebang" will have to wait until next year...

Delta Pro says: RE:Nice hike!
Sent 21 October 2007, 13h25
OK, I agree with you guys. Actually, the T6 up to Schwarzchopf was the western access to the pass, where you both descended towards east. Steep grass which was very slippery because it only was snow free for some days before our hike.
Cheers, M

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