Vorbau (near Bergseeschijen)


Publiziert von Lone Ranger , 25. September 2010 um 11:58.

Region: Welt » Schweiz » Uri
Tour Datum:22 September 2010
Klettern Schwierigkeit: 5c (Französische Skala)
Wegpunkte:
Geo-Tags: CH-UR 
Zufahrt zum Ausgangspunkt:By train to Goeschenen. From there Alpine taxi (basically post bus that needs prior reservation) to Geoscheneralp 1780m. You can reach by car too. From there it is a 2 hour hike to the Bergsee hut or to the start of the climb itself
Zufahrt zum Ankunftspunkt:back to Goescheneralp or to Bergsee hutte
Unterkunftmöglichkeiten:Bergsee hutte

Vorbau is a small peak, south of the much larger Bergseechijen peak and half an hour hike from Bergsee hutte, canton Uri, Switzerland.

3 pitches, max hardness f5c


Pitch 1: This is f5c; my partner led this. I found it hard, cheated once by pulling the express :-)

Pitch 2 and 3:

I led pitch 2 (f5a). This pitch is nice and easy, but the end is not clearly discernible. Unlike most belay stations, the end did not have a ring, just two normal bolts placed within 2 feet of each other!! I didn't realize this marked the end of Pitch 2; I simply clipped my expresses as I do in other bolts and continued up, and soon reached the top of pitch 3,  f4a (the summit). Again the same problem: you won't find an abseil ring at the end, just a single normal bolt and then you are sitting on the summit!

Descent
Actually there is an abseil ring at the top, but it is so far to the left (approx 5-10 m) that I couldn't see it. When my partner reached the top, he went and checked it out closely and decided it didn't look too good any way. The normal bolt at the end of our route was solid, so we attached a maillon to it and left it there for abseil.

Tourengänger: Lone Ranger


Galerie


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