New routes in Cordillera Blanca Ranrapalca 2009 – Peruvian Expedition

Ranrapalca 2009 – Peruvian Expedition Report by Eric ,Octavio & Eloy. New routes in Cordillera Blanca Peruvian climbers, Octavio, Eloy Salazar and Eric Albino, performed a new route after 29 hours of non stop climbing at the steep south face of Nevado Ranrapalca, located in central Huascaran National Park. The new route was called “the beating of Ranrapalca” (La Paliza del Ranrapalca)and it’s rated ED, 50° – 90°/95°, 850 m Climbing style: The expedition was a greater sporting challenge, because presents the novelty of Sport climbing planned in a light style without dispenses with a Camp on the moraine of the mountain, as well as all equipment shall be carried out along the route of the expedition members in the more exposed sites without the aid of altitude porters & animals. The strategy results in a rapid ascent that demand technical and less time, materials and exposure on the mountain. » Eloy Salazar, Octavio Salazar y Eric Albino abren nueva ruta en la Cordillera Blanca Sustainable Expedition Also we practice minimum impact techniques that allow us to withdraw, leaving the mountain as far as possible-more about how we found: no garbage that could have generated. "If we can load it up, we will be able to load it back." The Objective The main objective of the expedition is to first locate a group of Peruvians climbers in the summit of this mountain of 6162 meters of altitude doing sport climbing in 2009. Another desire is to get the 1st Ranrapalca ascent in a new route and for all routes that are possible from the standpoint of security, as well as the descent from the summit. Ranrapalca mountain 2009. It is noteworthy that of the 30 mountains over 6.000m altitude in Cordillera Blanca. The Mountain. The south face of Ranrapalca or "stony place" translated from Quechua to Spanish, is located in central Huascaran National Park, is a mass of about 6 kilometers long, with walls of rock, ice and snow of about 750 to 850 meter drop, not even counting his gigantic plain end, leading to the sharp peak of 6162 m. The Expedition After 29 hours of hard climbing between the rise and fall, the Peruvian climbers, Eloy, Octavio Salazar along with Eric Albino, made a new route on the steep south face of the Nevado Ranrapalca. The Expedition August 26, the approach was made from Quebrada Cojup, right next to Quebrada Ishinca. Half of it, and with the south wall above them plot a detour to approach the moraine and perform their respective camp, at 4800 m. Throughout the period last the ascent. August 27, the conditions, as in most of this unusual season, is quite bad, so the group decides to inspect the area and outline a possible entry route. The glacier left for 20 minutes from the camp, but the problems just start there. The ice conditions are very poor, from going up and down thin ice, crevasses and gigantic ice bridges so fragile they have to crawl to pass safely. Then draw a imaginary line, we got back to camp in the afternoon. After few hours we have a nice surprise with an absolute improvement in the weather. No time to lose, eat something, try to relax a bit until 23:00 pm. At the same day, we are ready to climb. The challenge During the first minutes of August 28, we pass through the first bergschrund access to the wall, but located a few meters above the second and last one was waiting for us about 5150m. That really puts us right in front of the giant south wall of Ranrapalca. The first 240 meters of wall, is done in assembly, a slope of loose snow at inclinations of 50 ° - 60 °. The loose snow gives them the security of sinking to the point where the steps are safe and ongoing. The first mixed tranche forces to Octavio forces to get a glimpse of cleverness making in an hard snow as main anchor while the others roped climb about 40 feet below, but 5 meters apart from each other. After placing an ice screw, overcome this technical area and again exceed a hard snow field about 240 meters, where they perform a quite original assembly, to overcome the wall that gave us respite. While the separate first roped up to 40 meters of his companions, he was putting stakes and climbing at the same time, we not mounted any meeting. Below, his companions, 5 meters apart, while also climbing and very alert for the first roped suffered a fall. Barely reached the stakes placed by the head cordate, recovering their peers. Epic Summit This same technique was used as described above in the upper third of the wall, the most complicated and hard ice climbing. Only we did meetings when we run out of climbing gear, thus make us able to overcome almost all wall before dark, keeping in time the last part that it was the hardest part of the climb. The final area features an overhang where again we placed ice screws to get into a gutter of 80° and 120m Long. This puts us protected on directly line to the edge which becomes split in flat areas and in higher part is so sharp that require them to "ride" on it to achieve the summit. Finally at 18:30 hours we arrived to the summit on Ranrapalca. With the last light of evening that reach beyond the edge of the east wall of the mountain, the team got 3 rappels down about 360 m and then downclimbing the rest of the route, towards the mountain (50 - 55 °) to the col that separates it from Ishinca. From there return to their moraine camp around 4 am and rest until the 1 pm to return, the same 28 August Huaraz. Although not yet verified the entire route as a new, presumably it is already known on this side roads through the areas west and east, but no crosses half the wall. Mountaineers climbing as cataloging their ED, 50°-90°/95°, 850m, with 20 of ascent and 9 hours of descent without bivouacs and total alpine style, called "the beating of Ranrapalca”. Had no shortage of reasons. The gear used ropes were 60 m, complete sets of rock pitons and bolts of ice and snow stakes. Only one of them left. Under this legacy, this Expedition Team takes on this important sporting challenge, to climb this magnificent mountain. South Face Route: POSSIBLE NEW ROUTE TO THE SOUTH SIDE OF Ranrapalca. Foto desde el mirador Rataquenua Huaraz. The Team Ranrapalca 2009 Maximum Eloy Salazar Obregon. Born in 1976, Single. University student Santiago Antúnez Specialty pure mathematics. From childhood I was always in contact with the mountain From very young I loved to take walks. When I was 16 I participated in many competition wining a marathon and many competitions. I would like for life to be near mountains country side. Eloy practiced climbing before 21 years old and for few years serving as assistant mountain guides of Peru. Currently I work as High Mountain Guide and Member of (AGMP) Mountain Guides Association of Peru. UIAGM / International Union of Mountain Guides Association. I had the opportunity to visit part of Peru thanks to projects such as studies of glaciology in Cusco Ausangate mountain range. As a mountain guide I've been in mountain classic climbs and I led several expeditions, explored mountains in Peru. I also participate in the film Touching the void of Siula Grande famous large mountain located in Cordillera Huayhuash My brother Octavio & I, we've been major climbs in the Cordillera Blanca, from a rapid ascent in 3 days Alpamayo, then return, carrying all our equipment ourselves, to attempt a risky opening to the large Huantsan Last year, for its unscalable northwest side. We have also made the snowy summit Churup. Octavio Salazar Obregon Born in 1987, single, aspiring mountain guide. (ISTP) Instituto Tecnologico Private Private / (CEAM) Center for Study of High Mountain I have led large numbers of high mountain expeditions in the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash. I've also made significant and classic climbs as Bolivia Cordillera Real Condoriri head of the wall route with teammate Eric Huaynapotosí normal route and volcanic range Ecuador Cotopaxi and Chimborazo normal route Major classic climbs in the Cordillera Blanca Eric Albino Lliuya. Born in 1984, single, aspiring mountain guide. (ISTP) Instituto Tecnologico Private/ (CEAM) Center for Study of High Mountain, 5 years experience, I participated in many high mountain ascents accompanied my grandfather Victor and my father Juventino Member of the AGMP / UIAGM who was one Pioneers expeditions in the Andes Mountains in Peru in 1978. I've also made significant and classic summits as Bolivia Cordillera Real Condoriri head of the wall route with teammate Octavio, Huaynapotosí normal route and volcanic mountains in Ecuador I had the opportunity to guide many classic mountain expeditions - as the main Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, and others. Translation English Version: Thanks our friend: Rodrigo Fuentes From Chile –Sport Climber, he is good friend from Eric ,he was this year (2009) traveling with Eric’s Family in cordillera Blanca climbing Classic Mountain also he is living in the USA. E-mail: rodefuentes@gmail.com Ranrapalca 2009 – Contact: >> To send e-mail members of the expedition • Eloy Salazar: rimarima22@hotmail.com • Octavio Salazar: andes_climb@hotmail.com /Octavio_andes@yahoo.es • Eric Albino: eric@southamericaclimbing.com /erik_bergsport@yahoo.es /Info@andesadventureland.com Phone Eloy

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