Trekking a 100k in Yosemite's Wilderness: Part I from Twin Lakes to Harden Lake


Publiziert von Alpin_Rise , 18. Dezember 2014 um 18:32.

Region: Welt » United States » California
Tour Datum: 5 Juni 2014
Wandern Schwierigkeit: T3 - anspruchsvolles Bergwandern
Wegpunkte:
Geo-Tags: USA   US-CA 
Zeitbedarf: 6 Tage
Aufstieg: 2750 m
Zufahrt zum Ausgangspunkt:Twin Lakes near Bridgeport, no Public Transport as far as I know. Hitchhiking from Bridgeport.
Zufahrt zum Ankunftspunkt:Yosemite Valley, Public Transport avaiable
Unterkunftmöglichkeiten:Free wild camping outside private property. Campsites in Twin Lakes, all kind of accommodation in Yosemite Valley.
Kartennummer:I recommend the very usefull and well made 206 Yosemite National Park Trail Map, providing much additional information

Wilderness - the often discussed and disputed term describes "a natural environment that has not been significantly modified by civilized human activity". These areas have been fascinating to me, even more since the Alps don't have any "real" Wilderness areas. To get a taste of the Wilderness concept (that goes back to pioneers as the legendary Muir) my stay in the US last summer was a perfect occasion: I planed to spend a week in the Sierras more or less without contact to civilization. My goal was not to do as many miles as I could per day - in fact I walked exactly 100km in 6 days before reaching Yosemite Valley. Therefore I had a lot of time to enjoy barely untouched nature and practice my second favorite occupation: fishing. 

Trekking in the Sierras is pretty popular and since I didn't want to wander with the crowd I decided not to do a popular Route like the Pacific Crest Trail or John Muir Trail. Luckily I could hit the trails before main season and since there was not much snow in the Sierra that Winter I didn't have to fight "potholing postholing" the notorious June snowfields. 
However, backpacking out there is pretty easy due to usually good, stable weather and easy, signposted (but not marked!) trails. Nevertheless one should bring some experience, especially when travelling solo and follow the guidelines avoiding unwanted bear-encounters!


In search for wilderness - a wonderful trekking through Yosemite's backcountry

Remark: This report is just a small summary of my trip to inspire future aspirants and give an impression of the Sierra's beauty. I won't go into details concerning gear, food, orientation and safety measures. If you want to know more, have a look on that map, write a comment or a private message. 

Day 1: Twin Lakes to Buckeye Pass +750m / -150m, 13km
After a nice mountaineering trip to the Sierras Matterhorn 360 had to leave downstreams back home while I continued upstreams. Since my backpack was pretty heavy (around 20kg/40lbs) and my legs still tired from yesterday, I was happy to reach Peeler Lake and the highest point of day one after about 4 hours. There were a lot of trout and brookies swimming in the glass clear water - todays protein source was easily caught. I set camp below Buckeye Pass at the edge of a beautiful meadow.  The night was peaceful but temperatures dropped below freezing point. 

Day 2: Buckeye Pass to Benson Lake: +300m / -700m, 17 km
I continued downstreams along Rancheria Creek till the beginning of Cerrick Canyon, where I came across the PCT which I followed, running into several PCT-long-distance hikrs. Going over Seavey Pass I came down to Benson Lake, which lies a little bit off trail. Therefore most PCT folks don't visit this beautiful lake and I had another wonderfull campspot and a little beach for my own. And there were of course some trouts to go along with my dinner. But every paradise has its hunters and the mosquitos were as hungry as I was...

Day 3 Benson Lake to nameless Lake near Pate Valley, +700m / -1000m, 20 km
From Benson Lake some miles along the PCT where I crossed another handfull long-distance hikers. I wanted to avoid this "mass" of hikers I and changed my original plans from following the PCT via Matterhorn Valley to Tuolumne Meadows to Yosemite Valley. Instead I went up to Murdock Lake and then down Rodgers Valley, where I met the first bear, just wandering on the trail as I did. Before I could take a picture it run away. I heard some other bears in the brush and there was a lot of poop, but I didn't have another encounter that day. For my campsite I chose a nameless lake left hand when going down to pate valley. A little paradise just for myself, warm water to swim and a lot of time just to let my feet dangle...

Day 4 Nameless Lake to Harden Lake, +1000m / -600m, 15 km
From my "private" lake I went back to the ingrown and very little travelled trail down to Pate Valley where I met some other backpackers that where hiking the popular route following the Tuolumne River upstreams. Tuolumne River was very inviting for a cool swim and to my surprise I was pretty lucky fishing: I caught one of the biggest trouts in my life. After some pictures I released it - simply to much to eat for me & myself.  
The final ascent to Harden Lake was hot and strenuous but in good company. It's a real joy to have someone to talk and eat with after some days on our own! 

On day 5 and 6 I continued towards Yosemite Valley via Yosemite Point and Falls. 


For every overnight hike in Yosemite National Park you need a Wilderness Permit. It's also mandatory to carry a bear canister to keep your food and smelly items safe from bears. All information about the regulations can be found here

Tourengänger: Alpin_Rise


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Kommentare (5)


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Sander hat gesagt:
Gesendet am 18. Dezember 2014 um 21:33
What a fantastic trip!!!
It must be hard to return to civilization after some days in the wilderness.
Did you not had the feeling to return as quick as you can after seeing the first villages? ;-)

Mistermai hat gesagt:
Gesendet am 19. Dezember 2014 um 10:13
That's a fairly impressive hike and exactly the kind of experience that I miss in the alps. The lonelyness is just an amazing experience IMO. Did you see a lot of other "human beings"?

BTW: Is it leagal to do fishing in the NP? Do you need any kind of license?

G
Manuel

Vauacht hat gesagt: RE:
Gesendet am 19. Dezember 2014 um 17:44
Fishing is legal if you own a license:
https://www.wildlife.ca.gov/Licensing/Fishing

It seems very popular in the Sierras to stock up food supplies with freshly caught fish :)

Delta Pro hat gesagt: Fantastic
Gesendet am 19. Dezember 2014 um 17:37
That's real hiking adventure!
Delta

sri hat gesagt: Wovon wir alle träumen
Gesendet am 20. Dezember 2014 um 03:18
Danke für den wundervollen Bericht.


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