Osogna Climbing (instead of Pizzo del Prevat, Spigolo NE)


Publiziert von MicheleK , 21. August 2010 um 02:49.

Region: Welt » Schweiz » Tessin » Bellinzonese
Tour Datum:22 Juli 2010
Klettern Schwierigkeit: 6c (Französische Skala)
Wegpunkte:
Geo-Tags: Gruppo Pizzo Campolungo   Gruppo Poncione di Vespero   CH-TI 
Zeitbedarf: 1 Tage
Aufstieg: 800 m
Abstieg: 800 m

Prologue
Pizzo del Prevat is one of the classical and well known Ticino climbs. The mountain dominates the scene in the region around Passo Campolungo and climbers can often be seen from the capanna Leit. The plan was to climb Piz del Prevat via the fantastic route Spigolo NE (9 SL, 5b obl) and down the normal route. The weather was foreseen to remain dry until mid afternoon. So we met with our guide in Arbedo, drove up to Rodi , took the first (7:30am) cablecar up to Lago Tremorgio (1850m) and from there hiked confortably up to Passo Campolungo. Our anticipation was growing as our destination was showing its phantastic shape at the horizon. Despite the foggy day we decided to attempt and from Passo Campolungo hiked to the start (15min) and roped up. Bruno didn't even climb 10m into the 1st pitch when heavy rain started and continued  for ca 20  min... :-((   We decided almost immediately to retreat as the rock would have taken too long to dry up and with 9 alpine pitches ahead and risk of more rain we would have run out of time.  So we retreated down the way we came up. A beautyful path leading through the damp subtropical forest, flowers everywhre - what a paradise.

Alternative Program: Climbing at the Osogna Crag

Back at the parking and a few calls later we decide to drive (30min) to Osogna, which had stayed dry the whole morning. We got to the crag at noon ca. and climbed thee for the remainder of te day until ca. 6pm:
Unfortunately I have no topo handy at the moment but we did:
.... 4c to warm up (lead and second)
Supercrack: 5a (lead and second)
....: 5b Sam_X leading
6a: climbing together in a 3 party.
6a: a crack (toprope)
Sam_X then went for the more difficult 6c (toprope)
Sorry - Details to follow.

Wonderful and warm slabs, cracks etc. A great crag. Piz del Prevat - We'll be back...


Tourengänger: MicheleK, SamX


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