Wat Phu Tok

Wat Phu Tok is located in the Isan region in eastern Thailand, near the city of Bueng Khan. It is a sandstone outcrop that rises some 100m above the plains in a spectacular fashion. A temple was founded on the hill relatively recently, in 1968. Ever since, the monks have been building and maintaining a spectacular set of wooden staircases and walkways on their mountain, which are accessible for free. The views stretch over the plains of the Isan region (with forests, lakes and a few neighbouring hills) all the way to the mountains across the border with Laos.

There are one or two hotels in Bueng Khan, but most tourists will visit from Nong Khai or Udon Thani. A public bus from Nong Khai to Bueng Khan and a tuktuk to Wat Phu Tok takes about 4 hours one way. I decided to go by taxi, which is over an hour faster and comes at a reasonable 2500 bath (ca. 72 euros) for the round trip, as arranged though Mut Mee Guesthouse in Nong Khai.

If you have your own private transport, then be sure to stop at Wat Ahong Silawat as well. This is a temple at a beautiful location on the shores of the Mekong, a few kilometres west of Bueng Khan.

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The Wat Phu Tok consists of seven steps or levels, representing the seven steps to enlightenment in Buddhism. Only levels 5, 6 and 7 are really recognisable as such. Wooden staircases connect the different levels.

Levels 5 and 6 each have a path circling all the way around the hill. Level 5 has a Buddhist temple at the southern end. There is also a prayer site on an outcrop at the northern end, which is a good viewpoint as well. Level 6 has the most spectacular walkway, which is basically suspended from the vertical to overhanging cliffs on the east face. The wooden construction appears acceptably solid, but it's still scary as the overhanging rock pushes you outwards to lean over the balustrade.

Level 7 is the plateau on top of the hill. There are no temples or other monuments here, nor is it clear where the highest point is. The plateau is covered by dense woods and crossed by a number of unpaved tracks (up to T2). There are a few good viewpoints, notably at the southern tip, at the northern tip and halfway along the eastern edge. There are dangerous, unfenced drops next to the viewpoints, so don't let children play around here.

Wat Phu Tok is only a small hill, but you should still allow at least 2.5 hours to explore all the paths and hidden corners, and to enjoy the fantastic views. I sketched an approximate map of the most important paths to help future visitors in their explorations.

There are no food stalls on the hill and only a few local eateries outside the entrance gate (Thai menu and Thai spoken only). It might be a good idea to bring some food and drink for a picnic on the hill.

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Due to its remoteness (relative to other tourist attractions in Thailand), Wat Phu Tok sees only few western tourists. (As a European tourist, you might well become an 'attraction' and 'photo opportunity' for Thai visitors yourself.) As such, Wat Phu Tok is a fantastic 'off the beaten track' destination, with thrilling views and great photos guaranteed.