Published by Lone Ranger , 24 September 2010, 16h08.

Region: World » Switzerland » Uri
Date of the hike:23 September 2010
Climbing grading: 5a (French Grading System)
Access to start point:less than 1 hour hike from Bergsee hut

Bergseechijen is an impressive mountain in Uri Alps.

The route we did is Morgenstund, five pitches long and max hardness f5a, the easiest way up the SSE face.

The climb was uneventful and went by smoothly.

I led pitches 1 (5a) and 3 (4b); my partner led pitches 2 (4b), 4 (4c), and 5 (5a).

Nice rock, didn't notice any loose rock, bolts are well placed not too far or too near. The only tip I have is, the actual route does not match the one pictured in the topo: the route veers quite to the left mostly, whereas the topo indicates turning right.

Once at the top, one can either hike up (T4 or T5) on the ridge to the summit of Bergseechijen or hike down on the ridge or abseil down the face.

The abseil ring is a bit further down as seen in the topo picture. The gipfel book is next to it.

Three abseils will take you down to the ground. The topo suggests three 25 m long abseils (as I understood). But in reality some are longer than 35 m. We had two 50 m ropes, so was confortable abseiling down.

Note: the waypoints I have marked are very approximate; I think the total length of the climb is about 125-150 m. Descent is just under 100m from the first abseil ring.

Hike partners: Lone Ranger


Open in a new window · Open in this window

Post a comment»