Devils Peak and Snow Mountain - a short-lived item on my Sierra Nevada to-do list


Publiziert von 360 Pro , 29. März 2015 um 20:34.

Region: Welt » United States » California
Tour Datum:27 März 2015
Wandern Schwierigkeit: T5 - anspruchsvolles Alpinwandern
Klettern Schwierigkeit: II (UIAA-Skala)
Wegpunkte:
Geo-Tags: USA   US-CA 
Aufstieg: 850 m
Abstieg: 850 m
Zufahrt zum Ausgangspunkt:Exit Kingvale on I-80, take Donner Pass Road west (along the north side of the highway). After 0.65 miles turn left (south) on Troy Road underneath the highway. Right after the bridge, there are several little turnouts to park the car.

*Last week I added a mountain to my Sierra to-do list. Looking west from the top of Donner Peak, Devils Peak caught my attention. This week I can report that this  to-do is already completed. After searching the net about Devils Peak, I found out on Bob Burd's site and on summitpost.org, that climbing this mountain was "advertized" as class 3-4 scramble and in combination with the close-by Snow Mountain would make a fine outing. Knowing about the meager amounts of snow in this area and learning from my mistakes last week, I left my snow shoes at home, but took my crampons and ice axe along today.

I park my car at the beginning of Troy Road, south of I-80 and start walking up the hill. After a few hundred yards I see the first no trespassing sign (top left here), one of very many today. I knew about the fact that I would have to walk through private property, but didn't expect the warning signs to be as persistent, alarming and numerous as I encountered them. So, in case you repeat this: notice if you follow my route, you might have to face the consequence of fines and/or imprisonment. However, the chances to get caught on a weekday in late march are probably very slim and in addition, according to the summitpost article, there might be a chance that hikers are actually tolerated. It's not private property of a person who lives there which I'm trespassing, but the Louisiana/Pacific Railroad, a timber company and the Royal Gorge ski area. Anyway, all the no trespassing signs I have to ignore somehow give me a weird feeling in my stomach...

In order to get to the base of Devils Peak I follow the main road past the railroad line, after 2.3 miles I turn left unto a dirt road. Shortly after getting onto this dirt road, I leave it again and walk south to the snow field north of the peak. I put on my crampons and walk up the steep slope. About half way up, there is a snow filled couloir (slightly right) which takes me up to the main ridge. The steepest parts are probably slightly more than 45° and even though the snow isn't all that hard and icy any more, I'm glad to wear my crampons. From this point on the ridge is mostly snow free and I continue without crampons. Strictly following the ridge to the highest point will give you plenty of exposure, if you don't feel like so much "air", walk west of the ridge. I bypass the last vertical drop up to the highest point slightly west of the ridge. On a good day I would have probably also mastered the direct route which seemed like a class 4, some exposed climbing in the third degree (UIAA).

When I get to the top, I am surprised to not find any summit register or mark of the US geological survey bench mark here, because I am obviously at the highpoint of this mountain. After following the sharp ridge to the southern foresummit I know why: it's because this lower point is marked as the summit of Devils Peak. Anyway, the view from up here (actually the whole ridge) is phenomenal, especially looking east, because the drop there is almost vertical.

After enjoying this view and the sunshine , I continue south along the ridge and find a way down to the base of Devils Peak mostly following the ridge. At the very end I have to bypass a vertical drop slightly west of the ridge. From the southern base I walk along the connecting ridge (or slightly right of it) all the way to Snow Mountain. It's a continuous slight up and down up until shortly before the summit. The last part of the hike up there is still covered in snow. Even though I make a few "postholes", snow shoes are not really needed (any more). Once on the summit plateau I actually have to walk around quite a bit in order to find the highest point with the benchmark, because it's not obvious which of the little hills there is the highpoint. After a long break I walk down the way I came up and later follow the path and street back to my car.

Tourengänger: 360


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BigBoots hat gesagt: 40 Years of Devils Peak / Almost Died There
Gesendet am 23. Juni 2016 um 08:48
I was first introduced to the peak by Bob "BC Dinkus" in 1976 when I, then a 16yr old, accompanied Bob as his assistant.

He was a Boy Scouts Scoutmaster and we led a group of 6th grade through Jr. High age Scouts up Devils Peak in the late Summer.

I returned year after year, always bringing friends to 'Bag the Peak' and enjoy the incredible views of Nature's stunning beauty. We always had a terrific time,
...until my last trip up.

After enjoying the view from the top for an hour or so with my friend Gayle, I jumped across a small ridge on the jagged top and landing on a boulder the size of a VW van, I almost, and I mean almost, went with it when it decided my relative flea-weight was enough to knock it loose, rolling down the 600-foot-plus cliff on the backside of the mountain, taking out 60' - 80' pines along it's way down into the valley below.

When I landed on it, it went, as did the earth behind it which it was holding in place and where my other foot was headed. With what little forward momentum I had evidently I jumped in the air, "Spinning & twisting like a cat" Gayle said, and came down with my body rolling uphill like a log on what little ground was left behind where it had been so precariously perched.

I broke my thumb in the process and yet had no recollection of what happened until hours later the fog of the ordeal began to lift, even though my friend Gayle tried her best to explain from her perspective about 15' away.

All I recall was barely hearing her blood-curdling scream which seemed far away in the background as I was playing kitty-cat in the air, flipping and twisting in order to come down in survival mode, somewhat apart from my conscious mind.

I haven't been back since, not because I'm now afraid of the mountain (though I certainly have a much-increased respect for it) but because I tried to take a friend up about 3 years ago and found a dead end where the road used to be at the lower gas station, and was told that at that point that it was now all private property.

When I heard that I almost had an anxiety attack since I thought it was part of the National Forest land.

I'm not certain of the present status of the land, though I still believe it to be part of the National Forest land, or if there's a certain useable trail which does not cross private property, but I intend to find out - and find that boulder - soon!

I want to get a picture of me standing alongside of my 20-ton Nemesis which almost succeeded in ending me.

Go! Climb!

Scott S. "BigBoots"

360 Pro hat gesagt: RE:40 Years of Devils Peak / Almost Died There
Gesendet am 23. Juni 2016 um 18:50
Hi Scott "BigBoots",

Quite a story! Which side of "the devil" did the 20-ton Nemesis roll down. If I know where to look for it, I might be able to find it on one of the many pictures I took during this outing.

As far as I know and can tell from this website (www.fs.fed.us/ivm/), Devils Peak itself is National Forest land. However, most of the land surrounding the peak seems to be private property. So in order to get to it's top you have to walk through private property.

My investigations (see my report) led me believe that it is owned by Louisiana/Pacific Railroad (a timber company) and the Royal Gorge ski area. If you don't plan to just ignore all the no-trespassing signs (click) like I did, call them and ask, I'm pretty sure they tolerate the occasional hiker.

360

BigBoots hat gesagt: RE:40 Years of Devils Peak / Almost Died There
Gesendet am 30. Juli 2016 um 03:13
Hi 360,

Sorry for the lag time, been getting ready for a move, sold the house.

The "Pebble" tumbled down the backside (West side) away from the lakes. It was perched right there at the rear edge of the top as one comes up the North side crevasse, and right before that 15'-20' Westward outcropping from where I jumped across 8'-10' of thin air, hoping to land on land!

This took place around '97 if my memory serves.

I clearly recall thinking, "That boulder is so monstrous it won't even know I'm there!"

...I thought wrong

I plan to head back up in mid-late Sept. after the heat waves, and craziness of Labor Day, have passed.
It would be cool to get a group together to make the climb.

BTW, once, back in August '87 after watching an incredibly inspiring & energizing matinée movie I drove up from Fair Oaks and arriving around 5pm, flew up the mountain for a 5-minute breather at the top, then back to the car in a total of 55 minutes from when I parked my trusty, crusty ol' '69 Type3 SqBk just above that short steep grade by where the warming hut was - but that was ~100lbs ago!

- Which makes me realize...

"I used to be younger"

~;^D)>


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