Malbun (FL) - Galinakopf - Gurtis (A)

It's always satisfying to do a hike connecting two points, between which there are no roads whatsoever. This concept becomes even better when start and finish lie in two different countries. With this in mind, I planned this hike from Malbun in Liechtenstein to Gurtis in Austria. With the Galinaspitz, we could even include a nice summit, exactly on the border, as well.

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Even though Liechtenstein is a tiny country, its geography is split into two entirely different parts. The populated western part lies on the eastern banks of the Rhine, which defines the border between Switzerland and Liechtenstein. A mountain range (from Drei Schwestern to Graukopf) separates this from the desolate eastern part of the country, the Saminatal. The water in this valley actually doesn't flow directly into the Rhine, but instead goes north into Austria where it first flows into the Ill. A single road leads into the Saminatal, which ends at the small ski resort of Malbun, at a considerable 1600m altitude.

Malbun is already in full winter mode. Summer hiking signpost have been taken down and snow shoe trail signage has taken their place. It looks a little surreal, given the warm weather and complete and utter lack of snow.

The ascent of the Galinakopf (T2) is scenic but technically boring. For a long time, we follow unpaved roads. Only after the Mattaförkle, a real hiking path is available. Compared to the long and gentle approach, the final 350m of ascent are suddenly brutally steep. There is a chilly wind blowing on the summit, but we're on the sunny side of the Föhnmauer and above the Nebelsuppe. All is well, very well.

The four of us split up after the Galinakopf. Michaela and her friend have to return to Malbun, since she parked her car there. Beata and me continue with the more challenging descent, marked white-blue-white, on the Austrian side of the Galinakopf. The upper part of this path (T3) can also be used as a worthwhile alternative to the normal route from Malbun, by traversing around the 2090m contour above a group of mountain pines. Lower down, the route descends on the Austrian side. There are a few sections protected by cables, as well as some steeper terrain where you need to take care not to slip on the many loose stones (T4).

At P. 1817, you can turn left and descend directly towards Gurtis, but straight ahead lies an attractive little ridge called Galinagrätle. This one is well worth a detour if you have the time. The ridge path (T3) is unmarked but easy to follow. The crest is covered with pines, but sparsely enough that they don't block the way and allow for plenty of views. After a nice spot with two benches, the path traverses to the north of one outcrop, then drops down into the woods on the southern side of the ridge. Some orange tape marks the spot where the path makes a slightly exposed traverse of the Lohnspitz east face. Afterwards, the path descends gently towards the Vordergampalpe. This alp consist mainly of holiday homes of residents of the village of Beschling, down in the valley. An extremely friendly local spontaneously invites us into his hut for a drink. A wonderful token of hospitality which we accept with a smile.

After the unexpected stop, we have to hurry down to Gurtis so we don't miss the bus. The last bus is already at 16.33 on Saturdays and there is no bus service at all on Sundays (check www.postbus.at for up to date timetables). The bus takes us down to Frastanz, where we take a train to Feldkirch and then a direct train all the way back to Zürich.