Piz Cavradi

 

A snow shoe ascent of Piz Cavradi near the Oberalppass was the objective of the day. Like two weeks ago, I met up with Brigit. This time, I had my own snowshoes, a brand new pair of Atlas Spindrifts. Brigit could only make it to Zürich for 9am, which meant starting at the Oberalppass just before noon. A very late start on one of the shortest days of the year, so a descent in the dark was pretty much a certainty. But the long way back from the Maighels hut to the Oberalppass should be pretty easy, also in the dark, so we went ahead with the plan.

 

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The Oberalppass road is closed during winter, but is still buzzing with people thanks to the railway which runs all year round. From the pass, our route first descents in order to get around the eastern walls of the Pazolastock. A summer hiking path traverses fairly high up, but this is difficult terrain in winter. We tried for a little to traverse higher up, but gave up and settled for the easy track past Milez. This is probably quicker anyway, in spite of the extra descent and ascent.

 

The ascent remains easy until the Maighels hut, crossing the Rein da Tuma on the way, just a stone's throw away from its source, which is also often named as 'the' source of the Rhine. Brigit's asthma is working up, and she decides not to go any further. She waits in the hut, which is unstaffed but unlocked and nice and warm. I continue the final 300 vertical meters of ascent onto the Piz Cavradi.

 

After the Maighels hut, the going is suddenly a lot tougher than before. This is partly due to the fact that I'm obviously the first an only person to make the ascent this weekend. I have to break trail on very mixed snow conditions. Sometimes it's so icy that I'd rather be wearing crampons than snow shoes. At other points there is windslab so deep and soft that even with snowshoes I sink in knee-deep. At least nothing looks likely to avalanche any time soon. Cairns and some white-red-white markings are sticking out of the snow, confirming the correct general direction. Still, it's not easy to find the best route up in the snow, trying to avoid the steepest slopes and some rocky sections. There is a short craggy section with a couple of chains providing extra protection. On snowshoes, you should probably avoid this obstacle completely by going around it on the western side (that is: the side where you won't obviously fall to your death).

 

I take a fairly long time to reach the summit, finally getting there a good hour after setting off from the Maighels hut. There are fairly dark clouds towards the south, but they are not getting any closer. Otherwise, the view is spectacular. The sun is hiding behind some light clouds in the west, providing a wonderful color palette in the sky. It's cold and a little windy, but there's still hot tea in my flask to keep me warm while enjoying the view and writing an entry in the log book. The last entry is 8 days old and from another Hikr, johnny68. His report is pretty accurate as well, only his time to the summit beats mine by quite a bit :).

 

I must have done something to my foot at some point, because it starts hurting a little on the descent. It means I have to move a bit more carefully and can't just run down the snow slopes, unfortunately. I meet up with Brigit again at the hut, and together we start the long walk back as darkness is falling. It's a wild and lonesome walk back, with the headlights of snow grooming vehicles on slopes far away as the only signs of life. First there's a long descent to P. 1831. I could certainly see the benifits of some skis or even a sledge here. Then a final ascent back up to the Oberalppass. Those final 200 vertical meters are quite a torture at the end of a tiring day. The Oberalppass remains out of view until the very end, in spite of the lighthouse with its rotating red light on the pass (euhm, yes, indeed...!). At least my aching foot seems to like the ascent better than the descent. (There was also the option of avoiding the climb back up the Oberalppass by descending down the valley to the next railway station at Tschamut. A careful look at the map however, reveals that also at Tschamut there is a final ascent from the road to the railway station of about 60 vertical meters.)

 

After having been walking in the dark and away from civilization for quite a while, the bright lights of the Oberalp railway station make it seem as big and busy as Zürich HB, even though there is not a soul walking about. However the Gasthaus Piz Calmot is still open. We have a quick drink before catching the last train. (Last train in winter is at 18:53 already!) There is a 30 minute wait at Andermatt for the train to Göschenen, just enough to get a take-away pizza in town. Then a direct train all the way from Göschenen to Zürich: ideal for taking off the boots, stretching the legs, and reflecting back on a tiring but rewarding day.

 

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The route from the Oberalppass to the Maighels hut is easy as long as you stick to the main track (WT1, or WT2 if you take short cuts between the hairpins of the Oberalppass road). The ascent of Piz Cavradi is considerably steeper and more challenging (WT3). Piz Cavradi is a rewarding summit, but the long walk in and out can get a little tiring. A good way to avoid this would be to make Piz Cavradi part of a two day tour with an overnight stay at the Maighels hut.