Goggeien Quartet

Published by 360 Pro , 26 September 2007, 20h35.

Region: World » Switzerland » St.Gallen
Date of the hike:23 September 2007
Hiking grading: T6 - Difficult High-level Alpine hike
Climbing grading: II (UIAA Grading System)
Geo-Tags: CH-SG   Speer-Mattstock 
Access to start point:cff logo Stein SG, Gemeindehaus
Access to end point:cff logo Arvenbüel, Arven

Alpin_Rise and Delta have described the complete Goggeien quartet here and here. In this report I describe a version of all 4 Goggeien/ Schär, which doesn’t require ropes, repelling or climbing gear.

Vorder Goggeien: up via North ridge and down via South ridge
Starting in Stein you follow the hiking path towards Hinter Laad. At Säge go up to Ahornen and then East to the North ridge. At around 1500m you start climbing the ridge, later you bypass the next step on the East side and back at the ridge you follow it to the summit (T5). The descent to the saddle between the Vorder and Mittler Goggeien is pretty easy. (I would probably rate it T4- with a tiny bit of climbing I)

Mittler Goggeien: up via North ridge and down via West side
The North ridge up to Mittler Goggeien is not too hard; there’s only one difficulty patch, but because of a steal rope hanging from the roots of a pine tree it’s not too difficult. The last part of the ridge is a little exposed (T4+). On the way down you first go back the ridge approximately 100 meters to a not very distinct saddle, from where you follow path traces down the West side. It’s pretty steep but not very difficult (T4).

Schär Nordgipfel: up and down via North-East ridge
The Schär Nordgipfel is definitely the hardest of the four (T6). The “easiest” way up mostly follows the North-East ridge and whenever it’s too difficult to climb you bypass in the South-East side, still T6 though. About ¾ up you get to a “wall” which according to the SAC guide is a III, to bypass this stretch you climb a few meters down the East side cross South for a few meters and then back up to the ridge holding on to roots and pretty good rock. From there it is pretty easy to the summit ram. (Make sure you remember where you came up otherwise you end up in T6+ terrain like me…)

Schär Südgifpel: up and down on the South side
From the main Goggeien saddle you first go down to Jöggelisberg and follow the path to the saddle between the two Schärs. Below the saddle you cross over to the South side where you’ll find a chimney (about 10m T5, II). At the end of the chimney you turn left and follow the wide ridge to the top.

At the bottom of the Schär Südgifpel, there’s a path to Schärsboden and from there you get Vorder Höhi and Arvenbüel.

Stein – Säge – Vorder Goggeien – Mittler Goggeien – Schär Nordgipfel – Schär Südgifpel – Schärsboden – Vorder Höhi - Arvenbüel

Hike partners: 360


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