Wildhuser Schafberg via Vrenenchelen and East Groove
If you’ve been up on the Wildhuser Schafberg on a clear sunny day you probably know how nice the view is up there. Here is a report and some pictures of such a clear sunny “fall day” (I guess it’s still supposed to be summer…). I chose the not very common way up the Vrenenchelen and then the east grove up to the saddle between the two peaks. It’s a very nice route, a perfect T5 alternative for the standard routes. Instead of going back down to Wildhaus I then went over to the Säntis and on the way added Jöchli, Moor and Nädliger to the list of visited summits.
In order to go up Vrenenchelen to the Saddle north of the north ridge of the Wildhuser Schafberg you hike to Gamplüt from Wildhaus (or take the gondola) and then walk to Horen (actually all the way up to P. 1568). From there you will see the access (Schrofen) to the Vrenenchelen. Once in Vrenenchelen you go about half way up and around 1900 meters you climb a grass/rubble shoulder on the right hand side (south). It runs parallel to the main groove; it’s quite slanted and pretty steep, and will take you all the way up to the little saddle north of the north ridge (see here and here). From there you climb down about 100m (L) and then turn right (south). Keep going for a few hundred meters and you’ll see the big groove in the east side of the Schafberg (pictures here and here). Climbing the groove is pretty easy (SAC: WS, but I think it’s WS- at most). It ends in between the two peaks of Schafberg from where you easily get to both summits.
The path from Schafberg to Rotsteinpass is marked red/white and blue/white. It first goes to Jöchlisattel, then always south of the ridge to Nädliger. On the way it is pretty logical (and not much of a detour) to also climb Jöchli (T3) and Moor (WS-). Both can be reached best from Jöchlisattel. After the ridge to and up Nädliger you end up on the red/white marked path from Zwinglipass to Rotsteinpass. From Rotsteinpass you follow the Lisengrat to Säntis. The way down to Schwägalp from Säntis is easiest on your knees if you use the cable car, like me :-)
PS: Vrenenchelen is named after the Holy Verena which is celebrated on September first. Vrenen-chelen got its name because there is often snow there from the previous winter until September first.
My Route: Gamplüt – Horen – Vrenenchelen – East Groove – Wildhuser Schafberg – Jöchlisattel – Jöchli – Jöchlisattel – Moor – Jöchlisattel – Nädliger – Rotsteinpass - Säntis